Some people have a natural confidence when cycling downhill, or at least a way of ignoring their natural fears, while others are much more cautious. This nervousness about going downhill is an important weakness to tackle since:

1) if you lose a significant amount of time cycling the descents it is extremely difficult to make it up when going up hills

2) if you arrive at the bottom of the hill at, say, 30 mph instead of 20 mph you have a great advantage for the next stage of the course, whether it is a flat or a hill, so the faster cyclists going down the hill will often be the fastest cyclists going up the hill straight after as well

3) if cycling downhill makes you stressed you will enjoy riding much less

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Training books will all tell you that it is the rest days between cycling that are just important as the training rides themselves. This is because 'your body needs time to recover', they tell you, or 'your muscles develop when they are resting'.

It's one of those things that I have heard very often but always found it slightly hard to believe, unless your daily rides are really very intensive training rides. If, like me, your main priority is just to get out riding as often as possible, is that really making you slower?

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Photo of Trek Madone 5.5 review bike

I have to explain three things before starting this Trek Madone review:

1) The bike under review is one I bought myself, with my own hard-earned cash, and I ride it a lot. It is not a short-term review model - unfortunately Trek didn't feel the need to send me a free bike, I can't imagine why!

2) Because buying bikes myself is rather expensive (!) I don't have a great range of comparisons to make with similarly priced bikes.

3) I am mid-40's year old. My own experiences might be different to those of a younger, stronger 25 year old. I ride essentially for pleasure rather than spending much time doing extensive training, but I do work quite hard.

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'Modern' thinking is that cyclists should take very little break from the sport during the winter, and should focus on getting out on the bike each week if possible. A fine idea, and if you are able to get in a couple of decent length rides each week it will certainly make the new season much easier. For many of us, however, a combination of shorter days, work commitments and poor weather mean that cycling training opportunities diminish substantially during the winter months. This article is aimed at us...

Note however that it is said that for each week 'off the bike' you will need two weeks of training to recover from the break - so after a two month complete break from cycling you might need four months to recover your form.

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The definition of 'long distance' for you or for me or for someone else will always be completely different. If you talk to a non-cyclist, 20 miles sounds like a long ride, but for an enthusiastic club member 100 miles might be a long ride. There are cyclists who regularly cycle much greater distances than this (Tour de France stages are often 140 miles or more).

For the sake of this article I'm thinking that a ride of four or more hours in the saddle is long, five or six is very long. Few of us have the time to ride for more than five hours in one session very often, even if we are physically able.

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When you first start cycling, you will probably read about the speeds and distances travelled by other cyclists, and find that you fall a long way short. Many experienced cyclists will cover 60 miles at 20-25 miles per hour a couple of times a week, enthusiasts much more, and faster.

This knowledge often translates into a desire to push yourself hard, when you can only manage 10 miles at 14 miles per hour!

The first thing to realise is that cycling is a long-term sport. Over at least the first three years your muscles gradually change to become accustomed to these greater speeds and distances, and you will not do the same after three months as you will be able to after three years.

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Cadence in cycling is the speed at which your legs turn. It is measured in revs per minute / pedal rotations per minute.

Much the easiest way to measure cadence is with an attachment to your bike computer, but it is also easy to calculate as you are cycling along - keeping an eye on the clock of your bike computer, count how many pedal turns you make in 30 seconds (and double it for a one minute result).

The problem with counting your own cadence while cycling along is that the act of counting and looking at the watch can actually change the speed at which you are pedalling. There are also some circumstances where it is less easy to manually count - going up a steep hill for example.

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One of the most common questions among new cyclists - and one of the hardest to give a sensible answer to - is the average speed of a cyclist.

There are lots of reasons why average speed can't be used as a reliable measure of comparison, which mostly come down to the following:

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We have looked at bike pedals and why they make a difference to cycling performance. Well it is not possible to use these effective bike pedals without having 'proper' cycling shoes!

The way they work is that a cleat is screwed to the bottom of your shoe, and then the cleat in some way clips onto the pedal. The exact process varies slightly, depending on the make of pedal and cleat, but generally the front of the cleat is put into/onto the pedal first, and then pushing down with your foot 'clips' the rest of the cleat into the pedal.

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The most important thing when purchasing a bike is to get the bike frame size and setup right - otherwise you will find you ache on longer rides, and lose enthusiasm for cycling very quickly. Riding the most expensive bike in the world will not be fun if it is the wrong size for you.

As a quick starting point:

- With your feet 20 cm apart measure the distance from the crotch to the floor (you will need some help here!) Advice: find a big hardback book and push it up between your legs, while the other edge of the book is held square against a wall. Make a pencil mark on the wall at the top of the book, then measure from the floor to the mark (repeat three times for an average). Not very elegant but pretty accurate.

- Multiply this measurement by 0.67

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If you are looking for a good cheap bike there is a bewildering choice of bikes in the £350-600 price range, the typical starting point for a road bike, and it is difficult to know where to start. Virtually all mainstream bike manufacturers have entry bikes in this price range.

To confuse matters further, your bike supplier will often have last years models at reduced prices, and often available at extremely tempting prices. There is little benefit for the beginner in having the latest model - so if last years version of the same bike is available at 25% reduction it is likely to be a bargain.

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Since 1885 the Italian company Bianchi have been making bikes, and recently celebrated their 120 year anniversary. They are the oldest active bike manufacturing company in the world.

Perhaps a little less 'mainstream' than some of the major manufacturers, Bianchi have a large following of enthusiasts who wouldn't ride anything else. (I have to confess at this point, my own bike is a Bianchi.)

Not concerned with going against the trend - for example Bianchi bikes are almost always fitted with Campagnola equipment rather than Shimano - they have had many spectacular victories during their long history and have played a significant role in shaping cycling as we now know it, both in the world of racing bikes and mountain bikes.

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A few years ago common thinking was that winter cycling was something to be avoided, especially by riders of road bikes. Many leisure cyclists simply stopped cycling for a few months during winter, while others prefered to continue indoors on a training bike, or perhaps using gym exercises instead.

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OK, so this is partly an exercise in stating the obvious - but it's a good place to start! Then you can browse through some of the many other more specific articles on the site for more information about these and many other aspects of road bike cycling...

Tip 1: Spend more time on your bike

Do you look forward to cycling and get out on your bike at every opportunity possible? It's fun reading magazines and chatting in internet forums about techniques and the latest equipment, but not actually very useful at improving your overall ability!

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Group riding - also known as drafting or paceline cycling - refers to several cyclists riding together, one behind the other.

The cyclists each take it in turns to lead, than after leading the group for a while the leader drops away and joins the end of the line. This has great benefits because it is much less strenuous cycling close behind another cyclist than it is cycling alone - because of protection from wind and reduced air resistance.

The key elements involved relate to:

  • maintaining a constant predictable speed;
  • avoiding sudden movements (especially braking);
  • being able to cycle confidently at speed with other cyclists.

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Cycling up hills (or mountains) is the hardest part of cycling when you are just starting out. Ignoring problems of speed, most new cyclists can manage to go along a flat road for a reasonable distance without any terrible difficulties. But what happens when a hill turns up? Even a  small  hill can be a big challenge if you don't know what to expect and haven't prepared.

To put the record straight first - hills never get easy. They get easier with experience, but then you go faster. However casual that cyclist might look as he races past you on the hill, be assured that he is also suffering. Suffering faster, it is true, but suffering all the same. Hills hurt.

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Note: see separate article for bike sizing (also includes saddle height) which also has a significant impact on your position.

A couple of good reasons to spend some time thinking about the best riding position when you go out for a ride:

- Sitting in an aerodynamic position on your bike is a more efficient and cheaper way to improve your performance than spending thousands of pounds on lighter road bikes each year.

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Cycling faster and better on your road bike! Most beginner cyclists approach to going faster is to go out quite often and make a lot of effort. Sounds good, and certainly works to a point. But sooner or later you will reach a threshold.

That may be at an average speed of 22kmh or 30 kmh or whatever, but most of us have a natural ceiling that it proves very difficult to get past.

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We cyclists all have a small pouch underneath our saddle, with as few tools as possible squeezed in - because every tool we carry adds a few extra grams of weight. But which tools are really important when you set out on a long ride?

Essentials:

1. Spare innertube - much quicker to replace an innertube and easier than repairing a puncture

2. Tyre levers

2. Puncture repair kit  - it's much quicker simply to replace the inner tube but sometimes things go wrong - you might miss the cause of the puncture and get another one straightaway, for example.

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When you first decide to buy a road bike the choice can be very daunting. From bikes in the local supermarket costing £150 to those in specialist shops costing up to £5000 or more, what is the difference and what should you look for?

If you haven't ridden a road bike before, or not for many years, it is not easy to 'test drive' bikes, because they will all feel 'wrong' at first. The saddle will seem uncomfortable and too high, your back might hurt, and you won't know how to change gears. Don't be deterred!

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In the 'olden days' cyclists wore shoes that simply rested on the pedals during cycling, and life was simple. Then someone had the bright idea of fitting toe clips to pedals, to stop the shoes sliding around so much. Slightly irritating to use, but more or less a good idea.

Then by the 1950's someone had the idea of also fitting something to the shoe that clipped around the back of the pedal. Used together with toe clips that worked pretty well, and it was still essentially possible to move your feet to the ground when necessary (for example stopping at a road junction) without major incident.

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Which are the best road bikes? It's a common question - after all everyone buying a bike wants the best one possible - but the question is one that is impossible to answer!

The answer depends on what you are looking for i.e. what you mean by 'best. First you need to consider which of the following is important to you':

  • speed over comfort
  • comfort over long distances
  • a great looking bike
  • cheap or at least great value
  • easy to upgrade in the future eg frame that is good enough to merit much more expensive wheels in due course

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To provide training information for cyclists, cycling equipment reviews and other information about cycling, road bikes and racing bikes - how to get started, what bike to ride, and how to ride it faster - these are the questions that all new cyclists ask so these are the questions we try to answer. There are lots of cyclists who aren't interested in always racing further and faster but simple want to go cycling for pleasure - no harm in that either!

We have a simple goal - our cycling tips and techniques aim to get new cyclists out on the road, existing cyclists to new levels of achievement, and with helping mountain bike cyclists make the transition to road bikes. It's not always about the latest cycling equipment (although that is always welcome), it's more about fresh air, health, personal challenge and motivation!

A couple of mountain biking sites, for when you want to get off the road...Mountain Biking the Lakes & Mountain bike videos

And when you've mastered cycling...get swimming and running as well so you can start to enter triathlons!

Please feel free to recommend any cycling sites you are aware of...or even better, get off the internet and get out on your bike!

 

Cycling training e-books

ebooks to buy and download now...

guide to base cycling trainingtips for cycling a century

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Kona Sutra 2009 Road Bike

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Fuji Newest 1.0 2009 Road Bike

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Specialized Roubaix Elite 30 2010 Road Bike

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Recent Comments
  1. Re: My 2010 goals

    Posted on Tuesday, 09 March 2010 by Boris.

    Hi Olly, I only know if very local bike hire...

  2. Re: My 2010 goals

    Posted on Tuesday, 09 March 2010 by Olly.

    Hi Boris and Jackie, My names Olly Clarke, I...

  3. Re: My 2010 goals

    Posted on Saturday, 06 March 2010 by Jackie.

    Boris, thanks for that. I did a 15 mile ride...

  4. Re: My 2010 goals

    Posted on Friday, 05 March 2010 by Boris.

    Jackie, the first year is the one with the...