Road bike sizing
The most important thing when purchasing a bike is to get the bike frame size and setup right - otherwise you will find you ache on longer rides, and lose enthusiasm for cycling very quickly.
Riding the most expensive bike in the world will not be fun if it is the wrong size for you. As a quick starting point to getting your bike setup right:
- With your feet 20 cm apart measure the distance from the crotch to the floor (you will need some help here!) Advice: find a big hardback book and push it up between your legs, while the other edge of the book is held square against a wall. Make a pencil mark on the wall at the top of the book, then measure from the floor to the mark (repeat three times for an average). Not very elegant but pretty accurate.
- Multiply this measurement by 0.67
That should be a good estimate of the frame size from the centre of the bottom bracket - the part where the pedal arms (cranks) join the bike frame - to the top of the seat post (the part where the saddle enters the frame).
Some bikes have a different geometry (eg sloping top bar) and will be measured differently - your shop or online supplier will make this clear.
(note: this is not the same as setting the correct saddle height for your bike - see below.)
Having bought the correct size bike (use the bike sizing chart here for added confidence) , there is a lot of flexibility for making further adjustments. The saddle height and position is much the most important adjustment to make.
First, make sure your saddle is horizontal. Use a spirit level if necessary. Although some cyclists prefer a saddle that slopes slightly to the front or the rear, this should be a conscious decision following experimentation, not an accidental misalignment.
Now adjust the saddle height so that your legs are almost but not quite straight when they are on the pedals at the bottom of the turn. You might prefer to start with the saddle a little lower at first, while you gain confidence, and then raise it 2mm each week until it is at the right height.
Detailed advice: setting a bike saddle height
There are many formulas and guidelines for setting the exact height and position of the saddle - none of these are perfect because we are all different sizes and shapes. I think the best advice for initially setting a bike saddle height is to multiply your inside-leg (to the floor) measurement by 0.883 and set the saddle height to be this measurement - measure from the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle, straight up the seat tube.
As a check, your heel should now only just reach the pedals when they are in the 'straight down' position. The saddle position might need slight further tweaking but it should be in a pretty good 'starting position'.
If you find you have pain at the front of your knees you should try raising the saddle a little, but for pain at the back of your knees you should decrease the saddle height.
Saddle back and forth position
Now you need to set the 'back and forth' position of the saddle. Typically this results in the saddle being pushed back almost as far as it will go. To check, sit on the bike with a plumbline to hand. Now with your foot on the pedal, which should be in horizontal position, the plumbline dropped from your knee should be in line with the axle of the pedal.
Your bike setup will now be pretty close to how it should be. Don't be afraid to try different positions and setups, but keep a note of the initial setup used so that you can quickly return to the 'original' settings.



Dai makes this comment
Monday, 14 June 2010
2012 here I come
Admin makes this comment
Wednesday, 16 June 2010
Ben makes this comment
Wednesday, 04 August 2010
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Friday, 06 August 2010
Kev makes this comment
Tuesday, 24 August 2010
I am 6"4" and calculated I would need a 25 inch frame. Evans cycles stock it in a 62 cm frame which is only slightly less than 25 inches. Even better its on offer for £419.00
Do you suggest that I take a chance and buy it? Also is crank sizing a big factor in getting the right fit?
Great site by the way, really usefull stuff!
Admin makes this comment
Thursday, 26 August 2010
Crank sizing is not a big factor in getting the right size bike.
Kev makes this comment
Thursday, 26 August 2010
Admin makes this comment
Friday, 27 August 2010
Alun Jones-Davies makes this comment
Sunday, 12 September 2010
Just one question: Will I get used to the pain of sitting on a racing saddle? Will bike shorts with padding help? Sorry thats two questions...!
Regards Al.
Admin makes this comment
Friday, 17 September 2010
earbyphil makes this comment
Sunday, 03 October 2010
june makes this comment
Friday, 15 October 2010
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Saturday, 16 October 2010
spencer robinson makes this comment
Friday, 24 December 2010
Can you advise me on bike sizes. Im looking at purchacing a specilized tarmac.I currently ride a langster 56". Im 5ft 11" and have 32" inside leg and seem to have a long back and have suffered with back problems on long rides. I have been to 2 dealers one recomends a 56 and the other a 58 which has left me a bit unsure of what to order.
hope you can advise
regards
Spencer
Admin makes this comment
Monday, 27 December 2010
Take a look also at the Evans Cycles online sizing chart (see the menu at the bottom of their home page to find it)
Carl makes this comment
Tuesday, 01 February 2011
Lee Halsall makes this comment
Tuesday, 01 February 2011
So is it likely that I have some part of my bike set up wrong,or just different muscles in use because of the different cycle geometry/gearing.
Mike makes this comment
Monday, 07 February 2011
I'm new to road bikes, I'm 180cm tall and bought a 58 frame which I now believe to be too big as another shop recommend a 56.
Is there an easy way to make it more suitable for my size, ive bought a shorter handle bar stem that seems to help (ive had the bike 3 months so it cant be returned)
Admin makes this comment
Saturday, 26 February 2011
Re back pain, some discomfort is normal on changing from an MTB to a road bike but if its persistent it could be that the size isn't quite right - having a handlebar too low relative to the saddle can be quite rough on us older folk, might be the handlebar should be a bit higher to start with at least
Rob Preston makes this comment
Thursday, 17 March 2011
However I popped into my local branch of Evans last night and had a chat with the friendly staff, mentioned my concerns about a 56 frame and asked if a 54 frame might be more suitable...
After double checking my height/inside leg I hopped onto a 54cm frame and with the saddle set correctly and using Evans' measuring process (knee angle etc...) it was confirmed that actually a 54cm frame would be fine for me.
More importantly, it felt far more comfortable for me, I felt more "at home" on this size frame.
The point I am making is that despite what friendly bike shop staff and other experts tell you, don't ignore your own instincts and don't be afraid to ask questions!
Half an hour is all it took for me to confirm my suspicions that my body shape is slightly different to others, and I'm now looking forward to many years of comfortable riding on my new Spesh!!!
wes makes this comment
Tuesday, 05 April 2011
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Saturday, 09 April 2011
Helen makes this comment
Thursday, 19 May 2011
I'm a weenie 5'1", 29" inside leg, size 4 feet. What size would you reccomend? And don't say a kids' bike!
Admin makes this comment
Friday, 20 May 2011
If you look at the evans sizing chart: see bottom of this page under 'Bike sizing' you will see there is a section for 'womens road bike sizing' which for heights of 4'10" - 5'1" and suggests a frame about 44cm - 46cm (or 47-49 for a hybrid bike frame)
Inside leg 29" sounds quite long for height 5'1" but what do I know, I'm no tailor - if it is you might need a slightly larger frame.
Good luck!
David makes this comment
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Thanks.
Admin makes this comment
Thursday, 30 June 2011
Try the evans cycles sizing chart mentioned in the response to helen above, or get an opinion from a second bike shop
David makes this comment
Thursday, 30 June 2011
The only problem is that my local retailer doesn't have any road bikes at all in stock; I can't put my leg over one to try it out roughly for size.
Thanks anyway.
Paul Sculthorpe makes this comment
Monday, 15 August 2011
steve makes this comment
Saturday, 10 September 2011
When I picked the bike up it looked too big but I took it home anyway. However, I just couldn't get comfy on it. I felt far too stretched out and all my weight seemed to be on my hands. The seat also had to be set low.
I took it back to the shop and tried the next size down and it was mucj better. It turns out that Boardman bikes have much longer top tubes than other makes. Luckily the shop let me swap or I would have made a very expensive mistake.
O
Chris makes this comment
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Admin makes this comment
Friday, 16 September 2011
What makes you think it might be too big?
davtherav makes this comment
Sunday, 02 October 2011
Thank you so much for your advice. My set up was way out, I wondered why I had pain at the back of my knee my saddle was 2cm too high!
Crawford makes this comment
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Admin makes this comment
Thursday, 13 October 2011
Every month or so I flick all the spokes to check none have become loose (it's a pain when a wheel becomes misaligned, and much easier to sort out if you catch any problems early).
If I've got a quiet afternoon I might clean the bike and lubricate the chain, but not very often.
I do obsess about tyre pressures though and check that each time I'm going out.